11/8/2022 0 Comments How long does warp stabilizer takeI didn't know I could only select certain positional values, like only x or y axis etc.Use WH, Low Sec and Null Sec tactics for mining with in High SecĪ mid slot module to deploy a mini Warp Stabilizer / Sheild bubble It's a weird effect, but you don't really see that on longer lenses. a cork screw when the inherent distortion of the image no longer retains uniformity when stabilization is added. I once tried stabilizing Tokina 11-16 footage also shot on a gimbal, and it is as you say. That's for that advice on longer lenses, the way you described it makes perfect sense and is something I've seen myself but never quite made the connection. If you look at hand held footage you can see the three dimensional, almost ball joint effect the camera has because it can rotate, tip forward and back and bump up and down/left to right when walking, a gimbal removes most of this three dimensional movement and by correcting left to right/tip up and down movements, the only movements it has slight issues with, or more accurately are the movements you have some control over is the X and Y Position, so have the software analyse this for correction, i think you'll find its a little better but it is a shot by shot basisGreat advice! You obviously have a lot of experience using Warp Stabilizer. I would try turning these off and see how good you can get Position stabilisation to work, this is purely the two dimensional X and Y Axis (or up and down) which is the main things wrong with some Gimbal shots (the up and down from running and slight left to right). If you look at hand held footage you can see the three dimensional, almost ball joint effect the camera has because it can rotate, tip forward and back and bump up and down/left to right when walking, a gimbal removes most of this three dimensional movement and by correcting left to right/tip up and down movements, the only movements it has slight issues with, or more accurately are the movements you have some control over is the X and Y Position, so have the software analyse this for correction, i think you'll find its a little better but it is a shot by shot basis Rotation affects the roll and i find is best used for longer lens shots because wide angle lenses have a certain amount of distortion based on perspective and if that isn't maintained you get this kind of cork screw/listing effect to footage, with longer lenses the distortion is reduced and rotation works better. Scaling affects how much the image appears to enlarge which with a walk/running gimbal shot is each and every frame and that can cause pulsing (Warping) footage. Have you guys tried Warp with the specific settings you need?
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